Dr. Martens boots, or “Docs,” have long been a defining symbol of the Skinhead subculture. These tough, practical boots have a unique history and have become more than footwear—they’re a statement of identity. From their beginnings as workwear to their connection with music and fashion, Dr. Martens holds a special place in Skinhead culture.

The History of Dr. Martens

Dr. Klaus Märtens, a German army doctor, created the first version of these boots in 1945 after injuring his foot. He designed an air-cushioned sole to improve comfort. In 1960, the British Griggs family took on the design, anglicizing the name to “Dr. Martens” and adding yellow stitching. The first pair, the 1460 boot, debuted on 1 April 1960.

Initially sold to workers like postmen and factory staff, the boots became popular for their durability and comfort. By the late 1960s, they had been adopted by Britain’s emerging skinhead scene.

Dr. Martens and the Skinhead Scene

The Skinhead movement started in working-class areas in the late 1960s, blending influences from Jamaican Rudeboys and British Mods. Dr. Martens’s boots became a key part of the Skinhead uniform, worn with jeans, braces (suspenders), and button-up shirts.

Docs appealed to skinheads for their practicality and symbolism. As work boots, they reflected the movement’s working-class roots. Wearers often polished them or added colourful laces to personalise their look, making the boots a form of self-expression.

Classic styles of Dr. Martens

While the 1460 boot is the most iconic style among Skinheads, other designs have also found a place in the subculture:

• The 1490: A 10-eyelet boot for those who want a taller, more striking look.
• The 1914: A dramatic 14-eyelet boot, often associated with a more militant style.
• The Oxford shoe: A low-cut option for more formal occasions.

Music and Dr. Martens

Music has always been at the heart of the skinhead movement, and Dr. Martens boots have shared the stage with many influential bands. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Skinheads embraced Ska, Reggae, and rocksteady music, with artists like Desmond Dekker and bands such as The Specials and Madness shaping the scene’s soundtrack.

By the late 1970s, punk rock had captured the attention of many skinheads, with bands like The Clash and Sham 69 leading the charge. The 1980s saw the rise of Oi! music, with groups like Cockney Rejects and The Business representing working-class themes. Dr. Martens were often seen in the album artwork and live performances, further solidifying their connection to the music.

Influence on fashion

Dr. Martens have moved beyond their roots to become a global fashion staple. Designers and celebrities have embraced them, bringing Docs into the mainstream. Despite this, they remain a cornerstone of Skinhead fashion, representing authenticity and working-class pride.

Over the years, the boots have been reimagined through collaborations and limited editions. Yet, the classic black or cherry-red styles with yellow stitching continue to hold their iconic status. They honour the roots of the skinhead movement while appealing to younger generations.

A Symbol of Identity

For Skinheads, Dr. Martens are more than just boots. They’re a badge of identity, symbolizing pride in their roots and connection to the subculture. Whether worn to a ska gig, a punk show, or simply around town, Docs carry a sense of belonging and history. They bridge generations of wearers, uniting music fans and subcultural enthusiasts alike.

Dr. Martens’s boots have traveled a long way from their origins as workwear. In the Skinhead scene, they became a symbol of pride, rebellion, and unity. Through their links to music, fashion, and working-class culture, they continue to inspire and connect people worldwide. Whether scuffed and well-worn or polished and pristine, Dr. Martens remains an enduring icon in both the skinhead movement and the broader cultural landscape.

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