Skinhead boots are a staple of the skinhead subculture, which originated in the United Kingdom in the 1960s. These boots, mostly Dr. Martens, are known for their durability, comfort, and distinctive yellow stitching.

The boots typically come in black or cherry red, but skinheads will often customize their boots by lacing them in different colours. The most common colours used for lacing include white, red, and blue, with white being the traditional colour used by original skinheads.

Lace colours

The traditional lace color for skinhead boots is white, which is associated with the original, non-racist skinheads of the 1960s. White laces are often seen as a symbol of unity and inclusivity, and are used by many skinheads who want to distance themselves from the racist and extremist elements that emerged in the 1970s.

Red laces are often used by left-leaning skinheads, who may identify as socialists or communists. This choice of lacing color is thought to be a nod to the red flag of communism, and is a way for these skinheads to express their political views.

Blue laces, on the other hand, are used by right-leaning skinheads, who may have conservative or nationalist ideologies. This choice of lacing color is thought to be a nod to the blue of the flag of the United Kingdom, and is a way for these skinheads to express their political views.

It’s worth noting that not all skinheads choose to lace their boots in different colors, and many simply wear the boots with the traditional white laces. Additionally, the choice of lacing color should not be taken as a definitive indicator of a person’s beliefs or affiliations, as some people may choose a particular color simply because they like the way it looks. All Buttoned Up community-member Maddy Raven adds: “It’s very confusing to be honest. And it might vary depending on the country. I remember Punks wearing red laces but they weren’t nazi punks. I used to wear one white and other one black to make it 2 tone.”

We asked French skinhead Loic le Tatoué his opinion about boots and coloured laces: “The boots are an icon in the skinhead culture. At the time it was the work boots or paraboots, with the pants rolled up to show belonging to the working class. The colour of the front laces had no meaning but since the arrival of political skins the yellow laces are anti-racist. But for most people, no matter what color the laces are, they think a skin=nazi. Hard to educate people’.

A complex history

The skinhead subculture has a complex history, with the original skinheads being working-class youth who were drawn to the fashion and music of Jamaican immigrants in the 1960s. They were known for their clean-cut, smart appearance, and for their love of ska and rocksteady music.

However, by the 1970s, the skinhead subculture had become associated with racism and violence, as a small number of skinheads began to embrace fascist and white supremacist ideologies. These extremists gave the entire subculture a negative reputation, and many original skinheads disassociated themselves from the movement.

Why boots?

Skinheads wear boots as part of their overall fashion and style, which is heavily influenced by the working-class, masculine aesthetic of the 1960s. The boots worn by skinheads are typically tall, with a thick sole and sturdy construction.

One reason why skinheads wear tall boots is that they are durable and practical, able to withstand the wear and tear of daily use. The thick sole also provides protection for the feet, making the boots suitable for activities such as skanking (a form of dancing associated with ska and rocksteady music) and other rough activities.

Another reason why skinheads wear tall boots is that they are seen as a symbol of toughness and working-class pride. The boots are often made from high-quality materials, such as leather, and are built to last, which is seen as a symbol of the durability and resilience of the working class.

Additionally, The boots worn by skinheads are often Dr. Martens, which were originally designed for working-class people, like factory workers and postmen, who needed durable and comfortable footwear. The Dr. Martens boots became popular among skinheads in the early days of the subculture, as they were affordable and well-made.

Today, the skinhead subculture has lost some of its relevance and has become a small subculture in the UK. But the boots remain popular among some subcultures and fashion-conscious individuals, who appreciate the boots’ durability and classic style.

Skinhead boots are a fashion staple that originated in the UK, and the lacing colour can indicate the political views of the wearer. Today the subculture is not as relevant as it used to be, but the boots remain popular for their durability and classic style.

Watch our shorts about lace colour codes

We would like to thank Maddy Raven and Loic le Tatoué for sharing their thoughs about this subject!
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